![]() The Team assembles at McDonalds, Oakwood Exit Chuck Cooper, Craig Sutter, Paul Brickett, Jeannie Hemphill |
![]() The Launch |
![]() Descent |
![]() Craig reads from Peter's Guidebook |
![]() Simian log in |
![]() The Boulder! Moss covered without Simians |
![]() Craig's excellent gear collection |

Subject: SOS
Hi Jeannie,
I doubt very much that you would remember me, but I joined the SOS in fall of 1966, as a freshman in aerospace engineering at UIUC. Curt Wagner, Dick Stutzke, and Paul Spencer pretty much adopted this newbie and saw to it that I got to go on several Portland Arch and Devil's Lake trips. Later in about 1969 while climbing at Devil's Lake with Eric Aldrich, et. al., I stumbled (almost literally) into Explorer Post 12 of Urbana, led by one Chuck Wilson. I became an advisor (their specialty - mountaineering, of course.) I think my direct involvement with the SOS tapered off a bit. However I continued to climb regularly with Eric, Dick Frederick, and Steve Forbes (except for Eric, former members of EP 12, and all, I think at one time members of the SOS) I had actually learned the ropes, so to speak, with Exum's in the Tetons, while in high school.
I do recall two spring break trips (circa. 1970 - 71) to the 'Gunks which included Eric, Alan Morrice (Chem grad student) and (I think) John Wrigley.
I have continued to climb with Eric whenever I am in his area. He has often suggested that I "re-connect' with my SOS past, so here I am. I have MANY times visited the SOS webpage over the years. As you might expect I was particularly saddened to see that Dick Stutzke had died. Another that I remember from many DL trips was Laura Jasch. You have no idea how much I have appreciated the efforts of those who have maintained the SOS page!
Part of the prompting of this missal is that last night at the new climbing wall on campus, a young (compared to me) gentlemen became uncommonly interested in the history of the club at UIUC. He was aware that the SOS had existed, but apparently had never seen a specimen in the flesh. Anyway, he got me thinking back, and it seemed like the right time to try to get in touch.
I have found four editions of the Devil's Lake Climbing Guide, the first being 20+ typed pages in an old green 'AccoPress' binder. I also have a 'Climber's Guide to Portland Arch by Peter Zvengrowski, June, 1970. I also have a few copies of 'The Simian Bouldering Book' a tiny little volume that Eric Aldrich wrote (and I 'produced') for an extremely small distribution. He ends the miniscule volume with "To them [the reader] I say, remember the Simian motto, 'Do what thou wilt.' " I noticed that is the little inscription on the 12 December, 1968 Banana Peel.
Briefly about me since departing the UIUC. Graduated in Aerospace Eng., but elected to be a high school physics teacher in the NW burbs of Chicago. It was a great 32 year run. Retired in 2003 back to C-U, a place that always felt like home to me. During the 32 year career I was fortunate to have some great experiences. Having obtained a pilot license at the U of I Institute of Aviation, I pursued that hobby and ended up eventually flying and instructing aerobatics. In 1987 took a race driving school and spent another 20 years as an amateur racer. In 1989 took a sabbatical to travel to Antarctica with the U of Wyoming Atmospheric Physics group to research the ozone hole. I was 'on the ice' for about 2 and a half months - mid August to November.
All the best, Craig Sutter, BS '71, MEd '76
P.S. When I was back on campus in the summer of '76, it appeared that the SOS was either non-existent or little known. I wonder how much the demise of Portland Arch had to do with that. The current club (about 10 years old) goes mostly to southern Illinois, and only rarely to Devil's Lake!
![]() Rare copy of Simian Bouldering Book by Eric L. Aldrich photo: Craig Sutter on the wall..... Slide scans courtesy of Craig Sutter |
![]() Rare Simian Bouldering Book by Eric L. Aldrich photo: Craig Sutter on wall Slide scan by Craig |
![]() photo of Eric? Slide scan by Craig |
![]() Vintage climbing guides from the collection of Craig Sutter "And lastly some scans I made awhile ago of some Devil's Lak guide book covers. Clockwise from upper right: circa 1966, 1970, 1979, 1995" |
![]() Vintage climbing guides from the collection of Craig Sutter Slide scan by Craig |
![]() Vintage Simians - Jeannie ('67) & Craig ('70) reminisce at Civil War Chautauqua, Community Park, Jacksonville IL Sept 2011 [Jeannie didn't remember beans! Luckily Craig did!] |
![]() 1969 Portland Arch Terry Burlingame(?) Slide scan by Mark Ross |
![]() 1969 Portland Arch Who? [ed: Fred?] Slide scan by Mark Ross |
![]() 1969 Portland Arch Who? [ed: is this Peter Z?] Slide scan by Mark Ross |
![]() 1969 Portland Arch: Bouldering "Top to bottom - Val Lichon, Fred Hanson, Brad Davidson, who?, Al Lawrence" Slide scan by Mark Ross |
![]() 1969 Portland Arch: Brad Davidson Slide scans by Mark Ross |
![]() 1969 Portland Arch: Brad Davidson on rappel Slide scans by Mark Ross ![]() 1969 Portland Arch: Dave Erbes |