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RECONNECTING WITH CRAIG (Sutter), MARK (Ross), TOM Di
SUMMER 2011

RARE SIMIAN ARCHIVES, recently revealed!  Scroll down

Plus RETURN TO PORTLAND ARCH!!!!
PORTLAND ARCH ALUMNI RENDEZVOUS - October 27, 2011

McDonalds
The Team assembles at McDonalds, Oakwood Exit
Chuck Cooper, Craig Sutter, Paul Brickett, Jeannie Hemphill

The Team
The Launch

The Descent
Descent
Guide book
Craig reads from Peter's Guidebook
The Summit Log
Simian log in

The Boulder
The Boulder!  Moss covered without Simians
shoes
Craig's excellent gear collection

Veni, Vedi, Vici!!!  Simians revisited Indiana roots and memories.  Found an old piton; recognized old routes with the help of Craig's rare copy of the Zvengrowski Guide to Portland Arch.  The night before Paul slept in a bivy sack through morning rain.  Jeannie burrowed in the toyota.  Good time had by all.  We hadn't really known each other.  Our years at the U of I only overlapped a bit.



From:
"Thomas DiGennaro"
Date: January 30, 2012 12:25:32 PM EST
Subject: Life and memories

Dear Jeannie,
    Thanks for your juicy email.
    I'm a very techy guy now. I've been a professional software developer for thirty-plus years, now building a startup:  www (dot) galgalsystems (dot) com
    I moved to Boulder from Boston in 1997, and I've lived about two years total in Israel since then...,
[mutual yoga connections....]
    I'm sorry to hear about your depressed town. Do you have to stay there?  [ed. why take the easy path-- the simian way!]
    Richard Ely does something he calls Sacred Geology. I emailed with him, but only one round and he stopped responding. I’m not in touch with anyone else, but I’d like to contact Curt Wagner and I think Smeaton. Was Smeaton in Math? I’m sorry Paul is dead – even a long time now. We were very close friends and had many many adventures together.
    If you give me access to the web site (Yes you can trust me completely), I'll patch things up and add pictures. I'm a pro at that. It looks like hand-edited HTML to me.
    The most exciting thing that Ori and I are doing with our non-profit  http://www (dot) center-for-spiritual-friendship (dot) org/   We teach "Ageing to Sageing" - how to grow older without being "old".  I expect that that work will escalate for the next ten to twenty years for us. We really want to lead these workshops all over the world. There are LOTS of boomers and we're not going into the night quietly.
    If I had know(n), I would have tried to be there last October for another visit to Portland Arch. Lots of good times there!  I’m not sure I know Craig Sutter. Was he around in the years 1964-68?
Yours,
Oz
3982 Arbol Court, Boulder CO 80301


From: "Thomas DiGennaro" <thomasdigennaro at comcast.net>
<>Date: January 25, 2012 11:32:13 AM EST
Subject: RE: ABOUT TIME
Reply-To: <tdigennaro at ieee.org>

Dear Jeannie,
    Yes, I'm checking in. It's only been 45 years. I have already been in touch with Rich Ely.
    I live in Boulder, CO. Married with four children, mostly grown; two grandchildren. I haven't done much caving since 1968, but lots of hiking, rock climbing (in California), skiing (including Telemark), white-water kayaking, road and mountain biking. Now, lots of yoga.
    My wife is Rabbi Ori Har, an Israeli. How did that happen?
    I'm a software guy doing web development - so I'm connected.
    Tell me what you've been doing!
    Oz DiGennaro (yes that's my name now).
I've attached a picture (not so really old now).
Tell me what you've been doing!

DiGen


From the archives of Craig Sutter (photos and news--):
From: "Craig Sutter"
Date: April 7, 2011 5:38:18 PM EDT
Subject: SOS

Hi Jeannie,
    I doubt very much that you would remember me, but I joined the SOS in fall of 1966, as a freshman in aerospace engineering at UIUC. Curt Wagner, Dick Stutzke, and Paul Spencer pretty much adopted this newbie and saw to it that I got to go on several Portland Arch and Devil's Lake trips. Later in about 1969 while climbing at Devil's Lake with Eric Aldrich, et. al., I stumbled (almost literally) into Explorer Post 12 of Urbana, led by one Chuck Wilson. I became an advisor (their specialty - mountaineering, of course.) I think my direct involvement with the SOS tapered off a bit. However I continued to climb regularly with Eric, Dick Frederick, and Steve Forbes (except for Eric, former members of EP 12, and all, I think at one time members of the SOS) I had actually learned the ropes, so to speak, with Exum's in the Tetons, while in high school.
    I do recall two spring break trips (circa. 1970 - 71) to the 'Gunks which included Eric, Alan Morrice (Chem grad student) and (I think) John Wrigley.
    I have continued to climb with Eric whenever I am in his area. He has often suggested that I "re-connect' with my SOS past, so here I am. I have MANY times visited the SOS webpage over the years. As you might expect I was particularly saddened to see that Dick Stutzke had died. Another that I remember from many DL trips was Laura Jasch. You have no idea how much I have appreciated the efforts of those who have maintained the SOS page!
    Part of the prompting of this missal is that last night at the new climbing wall on campus, a young (compared to me) gentlemen became uncommonly interested in the history of the club at UIUC. He was aware that the SOS had existed, but apparently had never seen a specimen in the flesh. Anyway, he got me thinking back, and it seemed like the right time to try to get in touch.
    I have found four editions of the Devil's Lake Climbing Guide, the first being 20+ typed pages in an old green 'AccoPress' binder. I also have a 'Climber's Guide to Portland Arch by Peter Zvengrowski, June, 1970. I also have a few copies of 'The Simian Bouldering Book' a tiny little volume that Eric Aldrich wrote (and I 'produced') for an extremely small distribution. He ends the miniscule volume with "To them [the reader] I say, remember the Simian motto, 'Do what thou wilt.' " I noticed that is the little inscription on the 12 December, 1968 Banana Peel.
    Briefly about me since departing the UIUC. Graduated in Aerospace Eng., but elected to be a high school physics teacher in the NW burbs of Chicago. It was a great 32 year run. Retired in 2003 back to C-U, a place that always felt like home to me. During the 32 year career I was fortunate to have some great experiences. Having obtained a pilot license at the U of I Institute of Aviation, I pursued that hobby and ended up eventually flying and instructing aerobatics. In 1987 took a race driving school and spent another 20 years as an amateur racer. In 1989 took a sabbatical to travel to Antarctica with the U of Wyoming Atmospheric Physics group to research the ozone hole. I was 'on the ice' for about 2 and a half months - mid August to November.
    All the best, Craig Sutter, BS '71, MEd '76

P.S. When I was back on campus in the summer of '76, it appeared that the SOS was either non-existent or little known. I wonder how much the demise of Portland Arch had to do with that. The current club (about 10 years old) goes mostly to southern Illinois, and only rarely to Devil's Lake!

From: "Craig Sutter" <csutter at  illinoisalumni.org>
Date:
April 8, 2011 1:14:32 PM EDT
Subject:
Re: SOS

Jeannie,
     What a lovely warm welcome back into the Simian 'fold.' Thanks! So you are now in Jacksonville and like Kickapoo. We should hook up sometime. I was over in Jacksonville last Labour Day to watch a friend perform as Edgar Allen Poe and Walt Whitman at the Chautaqua. I'm wondering if you might have also been there. That Saturday morning he and I went kayaking looking for eagles and saw two.
     And I like to load a pack and hike or x-c ski Kickapoo and Lake of the Woods from time to time both for training and just the pleasant experience!!
     I have also done a little travelling since retirement. I took a trip to Russia in '06 and fell in love with the people. (How were we ever really enemies?) I've gone back four times - once a train from Vladivostok to Moscow. Also China, Egypt, Jordan, Italy. I would love to back to Jordan and climb in Waadi Rum - they actually have a guide service. It is really interesting to see the potential changes happening in the Middle East, having been in a couple of those places.      
     The current UIUC club wants me to do a little history type presentation 'sometime.' I don't know if it will happen this semester or not - it's nearly over. They actually had Fred Beckey about three months ago. I didn't know about it or I would have gone. He'll be a tough act to follow for sure!!

Cheers, Craig

From: "Craig Sutter" <csutter at illinoisalumni.org>
Date: September 4, 2011 10:21:35 PM EDT
Subject: Various links

Here are the links to the five part description of the "Impossible Rescue" as presented by Ralph Tingey. In Part IV, you learn that Leigh Ortenbuger died in the 1991 California forest fires as I said. The part I didn't remember is that he was visiting "his old friend Baxter, for whom Baxter Pinnacle was named." There is also a posting at the end of Pt IV by Eric Aldrich regarding Gay Campbell. There are several links at the end of Pt. V re the movie. I have not checked them out, so I don’t know how up to date they are.
Part I       http://ralphsclimbingblog.blogspot.com/2009/07/north-face-rescue-1967.html
Part II     http://ralphsclimbingblog.blogspot.com/2009/07/north-face-rescue-1967-part-ii.html
Part III    http://ralphsclimbingblog.blogspot.com/2009/07/north-face-rescue-1967-part-iii.html
Part IV    http://ralphsclimbingblog.blogspot.com/2009/08/north-face-rescue-1967-part-iv.html
Part V     http://ralphsclimbingblog.blogspot.com/2009/08/north-face-rescue-1967-part-v.html

And some links to Teton summit registers: 
http://www.tetonclimbinghistory.com/page22/files/1964_GT3_7-23-.jpg           (See fourth from the bottom)
http://www.tetonclimbinghistory.com/page22/files/1964_GT15_8-25-.jpg         (See top two lines)
http://www.tetonclimbinghistory.com/page23/files/1973_GT25_8-10-.jpg         (6th and 7th from the top)
http://www.tetonclimbinghistory.com/page22/files/1966_GT11_8-5_7-24.jpg   (6th from the bottom)


Bouldering Book
Rare copy of  Simian Bouldering Book by Eric L. Aldrich
photo: Craig Sutter on the wall.....
Slide scans courtesy of Craig Sutter

Bouldering Book w beener
Rare Simian Bouldering Book by Eric L. Aldrich
photo: Craig Sutter on wall
Slide scan by Craig

Bouldering Book 3
Excerpt from classic Simian Bouldering Book by Eric L. Aldrich
photo of Eric?
Slide scan by Craig

Craig's old guidebooks
Vintage climbing guides from the collection of Craig Sutter
"
And lastly some scans I made awhile ago of some Devil's Lak guide book covers. Clockwise from upper right: circa 1966, 1970, 1979, 1995"

Craig Guide books 5
Vintage climbing guides from the collection of Craig Sutter
Slide scan by Craig

2011Sept Craig Jeannie chautauqua
Vintage Simians - Jeannie ('67) & Craig ('70)
reminisce at Civil War Chautauqua, Community Park,
Jacksonville IL Sept 2011
[Jeannie didn't remember beans!  Luckily Craig did!]



AND, from the extensive slide archives of Mark Ross (photos and news):

Jeannie:
Found a few slides of Portland Arch that I thought might be of interest. I tried to identify everyone that looked familiar. As you probably know, Val Lichon (maiden name) is married to Brad Davidson. As time permits, I'll try to go through some of my caving slides to see if there are a few that would be of equal interest to Simians and MIG alumni.   [Ed: yes yes]

Happy Trails,
Mark

From: marjan (at) windstream.net
To: georgefredericks (at) hotmail.com
CC: ebraddavidson (at) comcast.net
Subject: Simian Outing Society
Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 21:13:07 -0500

George:
Just discovered the S.O.S. website. What a great vehicle for bringing back the faces and places of the “organized” U of I outdoor adventures era of the 60’s ! As you may remember I was primarily involved in caving activities via the short-lived M.I.G. (Mid-Illinois Grotto), but the two clubs had many members in common & cooperated on a good number of projects and activities. Believe it or not I still have one of my old M.I.G. membership cards from 1973 (wonder if it’s worth something on Antiques Road Show).
In addition to the kudos about the website, I wanted to confirm the info Brad Davidson had given you in ‘06 and add add a couple of notes. As Brad said I do reside in Kerrville, TX. Married to wife, Janice, and retired from financial services industry in 2005. Still enjoy poking my nose in a cave occasionally and have done volunteer work at Kickapoo Caverns SNA and Hill Country SNA over the years. (NSS # 9276)
I’ve got several thousand slides from my caving days at U of I that have been patiently waiting for me to convert them to digital format. Most of them are caving slides, but I believe I have some pics from Portland Arch as well. I’ll try to digitize some of the slides in the near future that I think might be of general interest to website viewers . Any particular format you prefer ???? As an aside, I wish someone out there had some old prints from the Boyer parties and/or Thursday night gatherings at Arnold Hubbards Capital Bar and Grill. Oh well, sometimes memories are better than pictures!
Thanks again for the website !!!!!!!!!!
Mark Ross

1969- Portland Arch - Terry Burlingame?
1969 Portland Arch
Terry Burlingame(?)
Slide scan by Mark Ross

1969MR Portland Arch - Who
1969 Portland Arch
Who?  [ed: Fred?]
Slide scan by Mark Ross

1969whoPortlandArchbyMRoss
1969 Portland Arch
Who?   [ed: is this Peter Z?]
Slide scan by Mark Ross

1969MRValFredetcboulder
1969 Portland Arch: Bouldering
"Top to bottom - Val Lichon, Fred Hanson, Brad Davidson, who?, Al Lawrence"
Slide scan by Mark Ross

1969 MRoss Brad at Portland Arch
1969 Portland Arch: Brad Davidson
Slide scans by Mark Ross

1969 by MR Brad Portland Arch w ice
1969 Portland Arch: Brad Davidson on rappel
Slide scans by  Mark Ross
1969 Dave Erbest at Portland Arch by MR
1969 Portland Arch: Dave Erbes